Replacing a PURE Evoke Flow Display
** UPDATE 17th January 2023 **
Dear visitors,
For the latest Evoke display news, please check through all the comments section (best start with newest/ last and work backwards) about replacing this display.
The current suggested source for displays is Shenzhen Liyuan Huida Technology Co who have a good history of offering individual displays for various PURE radios. See their web page and contact form (Jack Wan) at the bottom. You might also find displays on Ebay - see below.
The reader comments here contain a wealth of background, advice and experience from other PURE repairers and are well worth wading through.
Some radios (eg the Avanti Flow) can turn out to be complex with lots of scope for problems, so please consider whether you want to gamble on fitting a new display yourself. Please note I cannot provide any specific advice on repairing or fixing problems, all the information I have is published on my website.
Lastly, folks, I'm sorry if this has become a bit convoluted or messy. My blog wasn't designed for such heavy traffic or 'chat' and large numbers of comments, and I'm trying to keep things going as orderly and easy to use for everyone (myself included!). Please remember, I can't retain or display personal email addresses etc on this web site, though I have successfully put a few people in touch with each other.
PURE SSW-1817 Power Supply Repair
A reader has shared details of replacing the power transistor and capacitors on this common switched-mode power supply used in several PURE DAB radios, more details here
Other sources of suitable OLEDs for PURE Evoke / Flow / Avanti Flow etc
17th January 2023
New PURE Evoke 1S 2S D4 D6 etc Marshall Mio Display Screen
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/114638725086
NOT suitable for the Pure Evoke Flow, Avanti Flow, Oasis Flow, F4
Some repair notes for the Evoke 2S are in this PDF.
20th February 2020
On Alibaba - Shenzhen Liyuan Huida Technology Co (Jack Wan) had offered some new stocks of higher brightness OLEDs and are known to offer a good service to UK individuals. Several people said they have been very successful replacements recently. See https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/22pin-yellow-white-3003319301002-Pure-Evoke_60671545961.html
PURE EVOKE 1s (early version)
I've received step by step guide notes on swapping these displays which are now here.
PURE Avanti Flow Display
Looking to replace a PURE Avanti display instead? I've written up instructions here.
PURE Evoke 1S Marshall Display
13/6/2019 - A reader has posted instructions on replacing the (same) OLED on an Evoke 1S Marshall in the reader comments, please scroll through them to the end.
PURE Sirocco 550
2/1/2020 - A reader has posted instructions on replacing the (same) OLED on a Pure Sirroco 550 in the reader comments, please scroll through them to the end. (Happy New Year by the way.)
In 2008 I received a PURE Evoke Flow DAB/ Internet radio as a birthday gift and this cherished radio receiver had been on duty ever since as a portable Internet tuner (thanks to a Chargepak rechargeable battery), doubling as a bedside radio with dual alarms and wireless remote control. The radio recharged overnight ready for a busy day ahead, seated on my desk. The PURE Evoke Flow opened up a new world of online streaming radio with integral services such as Pure Sounds (rainfall, babbling brooks, breaking waves etc.) and BBC Listen Again, both of which, sadly, have long since been discontinued and are greatly missed.
PURE was launched back in 2001 by the higher-end VideoLogic division of UK graphics chipmaker Imagination Technologies. This was at a time when DAB radio was emerging as an exciting new radio standard and PURE was being positioned as a premium consumer brand. Imagination hit hard times and the PURE brand itself was sold off in 2016. Imagination’s major customer Apple also pulled the plug, deciding to make its own graphics chips instead, and a bitter trade dispute followed. Imagination was snapped up by a Chinese/ US private equity firm in 2017. The PURE brand still lives on, thanks to Austrian financial backers.
A Display of PURE Genius
One of the PURE Evoke Flow’s finest features was its yellow OLED graphics display which needed no backlight and had much greater clarity, luminance and viewing angle than an ordinary LCD did. As every Evoke Flow owner doubtless knows by now, unfortunately the display would fade after a few years (say six or more) as its organic element deteriorated until the display blanked out altogether, rendering the radio nearly useless.
Sad to say, the same fate befell my own radio and I have searched in vain for a replacement display for several years. Spares became unobtainable once RS Components discontinued the Bolymin 128 x 64 pixel BL12864KERNH$ (Stock No. 668-6124). I failed to find any foreign source that would ship a single replacement display (but read on).
New OLED Display for PURE Evoke Flow, Avanti, Evoke-1S.
The search for a new display having defeated me (and I don’t give up easily), in 2018 I was really delighted to learn that an enterprising individual has managed to source and import replacement yellow OLED displays that fit the PURE Evoke Flow, Avanti Flow and Evoke-1S Marshall, PURE's guitar amp style DAB radio.
I feared it might be too good to be true but, sure enough, after placing an order online with the UK seller AJSDyno a small carton soon arrived containing a new display for my ten year old radio. Perfect! They have since run out of stock so you will have to source one yourself from eg China (read the comments section later for guidance).
Next was a learning curve to figure out how to fit the new part, so here’s my photo sequence and instructions to help those wanting to replace their displays with minimum fuss.
Only basic tools are needed but a lot of ‘sympathy’ and some dexterity when handling delicate parts is also required: allow yourself half an hour of quality time and work carefully, don’t rush things and you should be fine.
DIY Instructions to replace a PURE Evoke Flow OLED
Unplug the radio from its a.c. adaptor and if a Chargepak battery pack is fitted, remove it. The display is accessed from the rear of the radio, which is secured by six Philips screws, so start by removing them.
;)
Remove 6 x Philips screws holding in the rear panel [click to see];)
... and swing the panel out, as if it's hinged on the left hand sideThe rear panel can be gently prised out with a plastic spudger or similar tool, swinging it gently out from the right and allow it to rest on the worktop. It carries the main board and some interwiring. Note how some wires and ribbons hook the mainboard to the SnoozeHandle, loudspeaker, front panel controls and the Imagination Technologies display controller.
;)
The rear panel resting on the workbench. Take care not to strain the taut blue wire (SnoozeHandle PCB)A word of warning,
THE SINGLE WIRE (ARROWED) CONNECTING THE SNOOZEHANDLE IS QUITE TAUT. IT IS SOLDERED AT BOTH ENDS AND CANNOT BE DISCONNECTED WITHOUT DESOLDERING IT. TAKE CARE NOT TO TUG OR STRAIN THIS WIRE OR THE TINY PCB CONNECTING THE SNOOZE HANDLE MAY BE DAMAGED!
So ensure you don’t strain this wire. You can easily pull the two-pin loudspeaker wire connection off the main board. This frees up things to give more access to the innards.
The main front panel connection cable (a silver ribbon, 15mm wide) is quite sturdy and simply slides out of its PCB connector embedded in the front panel on the left, so note which way round the blue ‘pull tab’ goes and pull the ribbon wire gently out. (You can choose to leave this connected if you have the dexterity to work around it, but you may find it slips out accidentally anyway.)
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Main board resting on the worktop, display PCB arrowed;)
The OLED display ribbon in situ, note pins 1-22 markedThe OLED display connects using a flexible printed circuit board ribbon. The connector is probably hidden under some masking tape which can be removed.
;)
Showing how the connector latches must be disengaged before disconnecting the ribbonDO NOT PULL THE RIBBON OUT! It’s numbered 1 and 22 to show the polarity of the flexible cable. Look closely at how the OLED ribbon is seated in the connector, which has a black plastic clamp to secure it in place.
;)
Use a pointed tool or maybe a fingernail to slide out the retaining latch at both endsA pointed plastic tool (or your fingernails) must be used to slide the black plastic clamp outwards to the edge of the PCB. It’s effectively just one latch with two handles on the end that pop out evenly about 2mm, and then gently slide out the display’s flexible ribbon.
;)
Then remove the flexible ribbon from the connectorThe rear of the OLED plastic housing is detached by removing four small Philips screws.
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The four Philips screws (circled) are removed nextYour display is probably screened with adhesive copper foil stuck to it. The display is merely stuck with double sided tape around the edges of the display. It is easy to gently pry it off using a plastic spudger tool and it will come away.
;)
Carefully pry the display away off the adhesive border
I FOUND THE NEW DISPLAY NEEDS TO BE STUCK ON ‘UPSIDE DOWN’ COMPARED WITH THE OLD ONE, TO ALIGN THE 1-22 PINOUTS OF THE PCB CONNECTOR.
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On this new display, the ribbon sprouts from the TOP edge and needs folding back. Compare yours carefully!Clean the window if necessary with eg a little Isopropanol. Unpeel the clear protection poly film off the new display. The OLED can be applied and stuck down, aligning it in the radio's display window as best you can. Depending on the type that you purchase, the flat flexible ribbon might sprout out of the TOP instead, if so, fold it over downwards towards the controller PCB so the 1-22 pinout markings are visible on the ribbon as before. The old adhesive should still be strong enough but you'll be able to lift and reposition the display if necessary.
;)
My replacement display fitted in place. Yours might look different. Main thing is to ensure the pinouts 1 > 22 align the right way roundRe-assembly, as they famously say, is the reverse of the above. Pass the OLED ribbon through the slot in the black plastic housing and screw down with 4 Philips screws.
I obtained a small reel of 50mm adhesive copper tape from Ebay and stuck it over the black plastic housing. That's optional.
To re-connect the OLED to the PCB, you must ensure the black plastic latches are STILL OUT by a few millimetres then gently slide the connector ribbon in as far as it will go. You'll know it's right when the bare copper conductors on the end of the flexible ribbon disappear into the housing, after which it can't go any further. Gently but firmly slide the black plastic latches inwards again to clamp the ribbon evenly in place.
If necessary, re-insert the silver front panel ribbon, the right way round, into its own connector ensuring the flat ribbon is even and flush with the connector.
Reconnect the loudspeaker and close up the housing by 'swinging it back into' the case, starting at the left-hand (telescopic aerial) side, always taking care not to strain the blue SnoozeHandle wire, then screw the rear back onto the housing.
;)
Powered up and working again! [click to see]The radio can then be powered up and tested. Mine worked immediately, even after all this time it remembered the settings and found my LAN again. The remote control worked again too with new batteries (remember there is a 'Hardware Bind' button in the remote, to pair it that way if needed). Surprisingly, my radio then updated its firmware over Wi-fi to V5.1.The display active/ standby brightness can be dimmed via the Options menu if it is too bright.
LEGACY LINK : Replacement Evoke Flow OLED Display from AJSDyno
Alan W
Copper foil screening
Just to clarify about the copper foil stuck behind the display (used for shielding against interference) - mine was stuck down solidly and impossible to lift off. If you can re-use the old foil, it can only help.
In October I found some 50mm copper tape on Ebay which I stuck over the rear of the OLED, on the black plastic itself. Search for eg 'copper foil EMI tape' on eBay, there's plenty of choice for adhesive copper screening tape in every size. AW
Alan W
Can't win 'em all...
Sad to say, my replacement yellow display (as pictured) didn't last all that long - it faded and rows of pixels have failed altogether. I've replaced it with a second spare that I'd bought at the same time (for repairing for old time's sake 5-10 years from now). That too isn't as bright as it could be, but at least it works.
The original yellow OLEDs have all but disappeared from sale altogether now, so there is next to no chance of getting a new replacement. At the time of writing, a few WHITE ones are popping up on sale (Ebay etc.) , claiming to be brand new, so I'm trying one of those before they're all gone too.
Unless a stash of displays is unearthed from somewhere, it will soon become impossible to get another display once those white ones have been snapped up, so make the most of your Pure Evoke radio while you can. Consider unplugging and switching off altogether when it's not in use, to preserve those OLEDs as long as possible. AW
Alan W
Alibaba Yellow OLED
Well it's on the way - I've ordered one of these from China for about $27.00, also as suggested by other buyers so I'll see what they look like. I was pleasantly surprised to source one-offs via Alibaba, though the ordering system is a bit convoluted.
https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/2-7-inch-128x64-12864-SSD1305_60671545961.html
More news as it happens! AW
Alan W
Fitting a Yellow OLED sourced via AliExpress
I fitted a Yellow OLED sourced from Shenzhen Liyuan Huida Technology Co., Ltd via Alibaba – a convoluted ordering process but everything arrived intact within ten days with no problems experienced.
I’m happy to say this is working perfectly, a nice bright yellow display just like the original and it dims as required.
Unfortunately the black plastic ribbon clamp somehow ‘pinged’ out from the board altogether. It has two tiny plastic spigots that align into each end of the PCB connector shown in my photos, the clamp being underneath the ribbon cable. When it’s pushed fully home, it sandwiches the ribbon firmly in place. Sadly, one of these spigots jammed and broke off (not surprised after all the hammer it’s had). However the other spigot is still intact, so I carefully re-inserted it underneath the OLED display ribbon, and pushed it home again. This seems to have held together so far. It can’t be repaired so let’s hope it stays that way.
It's best to use eg a plastic spudger or similar to ensure the clamp is only pushed out by a millimeter or so, and do not use excessive force.
Only time will tell whether the latest display will last or fade or drop some pixels, but it's looking great so far. I'll report findings back here. AW
ED 
Reader Comments (239)
Jack is now out of stock, but he MIGHT have ones with a 30 pin connector on. I can adapt this to work I think...
Hi Alan,
Thanks for this post. I'm amazed how many people have the very same issue of the dead OLED screen on the Pure Evoke Flow, just like me.
It appears Alibaba (Jack) has now run out of stock? Any other suggestions for me.
thanks,
Jon-man
Dear Alan,
My thanks from me as well for this great post.
I have just successfully replaced my almost-dead Pure Evoke display with one that I arrived today (28 April 2020) - it took less than 30 minutes following your guide.
Therefore as of today, First Components have some stock and I can confirm the display works fine so far.
Just a FYI, I did not transpose the copper backing so I hope this does not cause issues later on.
Best regards
Ian
Sent off to First Components in Italy for the Winstar WEX012864DWPP3N00000 128 x 64 px white, 22 pin. It arrived very quickly, fitted easily following the excellent instructions here, and works a treat!
Hi Alan
Thanks loads for these posts , it's brilliant that people are keeping these radios going rather than adding to landfill before there time ! This is probably a daft idea but I was imagining following your instructions but with an oversized OLED screen stuck on the outside of the radio . For a post apocalyptic look ;) I was wondering if you might be able to recommend a screen that's available but not the right fit for the radio but that would still function properly? Thanks , John
Thanks for this. I had a display - probably his last - from Dan and it had been sitting here waiting for the last 3 months. The lock-in has given me a chance to fit it, with your instructions. Thank you very much. Its all nice and bright now.
Thanks for this great resource Alan! I found your website while I was browsing the net for solutions for a non-functional oled display in a Pure Evoke D6,which is only 4 years old. The display suddenly stopped working... Would you think that matches the issue you were mentioning, that after some time the organic component in it just wears out..? (according to the friend I'm repairing it for) it didn't reduce in performance over time (all that) noticeably.
I was lucky to find the exact replacement display on alibaba (https://m.alibaba.com/product/60762816844/detail.html?activity_id=icbu_minisite_web&channel=minisite_a2706.wapshop.89.i5&from=icbu_minisite_web&isFromApp=1&scenery_id=2&language=en¤cy=GBP&spm=a2706.wapshop.89.i5&_aplus_page_enable=true&wx_navbar_transparent=true - it doesn't mention the D6, but the "Rit" product code is identical). However, I wonder if I better buy a couple of them, if it has such a short lifespan, or would you happen to know if they corrected that issue in later versions perhaps..?
Last, I would be happy to order some more for other people in the UK who need it, and who may find it via your website for instance... Though I could also understand you don't have ambitions to go down that road all too far.. :~)
@Njiruk it's not like the usual OLED failure mode as they tend to go dim over time before failing altogether. Depends on how many hours it has operated for. Unfortunately I have no experience of the D6 and can't say about compatibility of the display you mentioned, as there is no guarantee the controller chip is compatible. The OLED price is unusually low! So it's worth trying a couple.
Hi,
I've read this with interest as my Evoke D4 has befallen the same fate. Its only 2 years old :( much better for the environment to replace screen rather than whole thing. Can you offer any advice please? Many thanks for your dedication to repairs. We can fix it! J
There seems to be an emerging trend with newer models' OLED displays going the same way, dimming or failing altogether. I can't suggest anything as I haven't reverse-engineered one nor sourced any displays from overseas. If the Evoke Flow & Avanti are anything to go by, small lots of displays might pop up here or there (mainly, Alibaba), but quality and quantity will be erratic. One user is actively designing an intelligent LCD module to replace the OLED, but expect it will be a while before it's ready. For now, I would keep hold of the radios and wait for solutions to emerge. AW
Anyone have any further news on replacement stock coming in anywhere?
First Components in Italy seem to be only only likely-looking source at the moment (early June). Awaiting stock I understood. Someone is designing a replacement LCD display adaptor kit but that's some time away. I have seen early prototypes and was very impressed. Not the same as an OLED but the next best thing.
Very helpful.
Our display has completely gone. Will keep an eye on the OLED and LCD options whilst I pluck up the courage to try the DIY repair!
The replacement for discontinued WEX012864DWPP3N00000
is up on the First Components page.
https://www.first-components.com/en/weo12864wk08-fc
Anyone planning to order in bulk ?
Hi Just discovered this site - it seems you’re doing a great job of keeping these radios going! Shame on Pure for refusing to supply parts and the generally unhelpful attitude to their customers. Apologies if I’ve missed this - but I don’t see the Oasis Flow mentioned anywhere - are these replacement displays compatible with this model, and have you ever repaired one?
I bought a Pure Outlet Oasis Flow over 4 years ago now. It was stored for about 18 months and when I tried to use the display was fragmented, then went blank. I contacted Pure a couple of years ago and they offered an ‘out of warranty service’ for £70 - they would attempt repair, but if not possible they would send a replacement refurbished radio (no Oasis available). I didn’t get the impression they would try very hard to repair it. I didn’t go ahead as I love the Oasis and thought I might find a way to fix it...
Hi everyone
I ordered the item WEX012864DWPP3N00000 from First Components, with some trepidation because with the delivery the total came to approximately £57. I have fitted it, but unfortunately, it produces the "mirror image" display and is consequently unusable. I've written back to First Components to see if a refund is available, but I'm not holding my breath! Therefore, unfortunately my advice to anyone reading this is not to bother frankly because it seems it is pot luck if your module will work correctly (unless someone knows differently?) Put the money towards a new radio, as I will be.
That's a bummer. :( The WEX012864DWPP3N00000 from First Components has gone out of stock. Historically there are known problems with some displays showing mirror image displays, caused I believe by the controller chip and the way it interprets the radio code. There is a long post earlier on about this exact problem. The WEX012864DWPP3N00000 [mirror image effect reported] from First Components had an SSD1305 controller [which I understand was the correct one needed]. Their replacement WEO12864W#K08-FC has an SSD1309 controller so I can't be sure it works. I have no more details on this latter display.
All feedback, sources and recommendations are welcome! AW
Hang in there, guys! I have been making good progress with an adaptor board that solves the mirrored display problem, and allows the use of an OLED which is available still. This is now finished, but I need a bit more stock before I'm in a position to sell any. I'm hoping that the price should be competitive with the First Components display, as well as actually being the right way round!
I've *also* been working on a board that allows you to use a cheap blue/white backlit LCD display (which is not 100% finished yet). As well as hopefully having a much longer lifespan than OLEDs, it's also cheaper, which is another win.
Here's a photo showing my OLED display board mounted in the radio to prove it's real ;-)
http://www.davidmpye.com/files/oled_board.jpg
It might not be entirely clear, but it mounts on the back of the plastic cover that goes over the OLED display, and the flexi-cable needs to be unplugged from the original OLED board and onto this one.
David
"Their replacement WEO12864W#K08-FC has an SSD1309 controller so I can't be sure it works. I have no more details on this latter display."
I just received and installed this from First Components and it also mirrors.
My part from Jack Wan disappeared in Lockdown Transit but he claims he will send one on when he has his back in stock, but not sure when that might be.
David, does you planned adapter board work as an add on to these replacements displays?
If so I'll be very interested in one!
Stuart.
[Please note email addresses are normally removed from all posts. AW]
I just installed the WEO12864W#K08-FC on my Pure Evok F4 and unfortunately I have to confirm that also this display produce a mirrored screen :-(
@David: I would be very interested in the adapter board if you produce some!
Wolfgang
Hi Stuart,
I am currently targetting a different OLED display with my boards (it's a 30 pin one, which seems to be more easily available - or at least so I hope). I haven't chosen to target the 22 pin one you've got from First Components as it's quite a bit more expensive so doesn't seem worth my while (esp as it might well run out anyway soon!)
My ultimate aim here is to have two options for people who want to repair their radios:
Cheapest option - white/blue LCD display. Which are cheaper than the original OLED, and should be longer lasting hopefully. Doesn't do the scrolling text quite so well, but I think is acceptable. Will provide a video to show what it looks like once I'm done.
Authentic option - the board I showed above, with a known-good Jack Wan-sourced OLED display.
The 'OLED' option is quite easy to install - not really any harder than doing a display swap. The LCD option is a little more of a nuisance, but until my boards arrive, I can't say for sure how easy it will be. It's still a work in progress.
David
Hi Alan,
Firstly, I would like to thank you for keeping this topic running. It seems that there may be more than one solution.
But first, I would like to correct an earlier message of mine that gave the impression that a compatible replacement display should have the SSD1305 driver; this is not the cause of the mirrored display image (as Jack Wan pointed out to me), it is the different pixel address configuration of most current displays.
I had wondered about reversing the mirrored image on the display using a prism, but the limited space behind the display makes this only possible with a 1.5" OLED. It works, but is a bit clumsy!
Then I considered an LCD as a replacement, like David Pye, and found one that appears to have the same pixel addressing as the original P19301, a very similar size, and an SPI interface. I have it now, but am still struggling to identify the pins from the tuner to the 8-way ribbon cable socket on the front panel, but it would be a cheap option, if it works, as the LCD display cost <£5 from China, including postage!
Then I saw what I thought was compatible display on Jack Wan's Alibaba site (the LY270WT16-128064), which has a 30-way ribbon cable rather than the 22-way. He says they tried it with a 22-way cable in a Pure radio but it did not display correctly, which I found strange. However, they are working on a replacement which he says will be compatible, and he will be in contact when it is ready. My only concern is that as sole supplier, and with many eager customers, he can charge a high price, as First Components did as supplies of the Winstar display dwindled.
So don't throw the Evoke\Avanti\Sirroco\Oasis Flow away just yet, a solution to the dead display may be in the pipeline.
John
Hello
Thank you Alan for your sort : it is really useful and I am looking forward to giving a new life to my 10 year-old Evoke.
I’ve found this oled display on ebay :
https://www.ebay.fr/itm/1-54-inch-Screen-128-x-64-OLED-LED-LCD-Display-Module-Yellow/161184355966?hash=item258756167e:g:F8IAAOxy~g5RyWxY
It uses SSD1305, but has 24 pins instead of 22. Do you think it could fit my evoke ?
Once again, great job
@ Thom thanks for the comments -- unfortunately there is no way the (24 pin) display can fit directly onto the radio board as it is firmly designed for the 22 pin ribbon. There are also big problems surfacing with different display segment pinouts, which is causing mirror image displays. David Pye (see comments above) has done some excellent work on this and is also looking at an LCD kit.
History proves that supplies of OLEDs are unreliable. So David's aftermarket OLED/ LCD adaptor is the way I think we should go.
-- Alan W
Hi (mainly John!),
I will find and repost the schematic including the pinout of the FFC cable tomorrow. (It is on an earlier post of mine in this thread if you want it before then!)
I think your idea probably won't work as-is for two reasons:
1) the LCDs I have been using ( https://www.buydisplay.com/blue-2-6-inch-128x64-cog-lcd-module-display-with-touch-panel-serial-spi ) require a whole bunch of init commands (which are completely different to the oled ones) in order to even display anything.
2) even if yours doesn't, the radio regularly sends a huge block of commands to ensure the display registers aren't corrupted, which are almost guaranteed to confuse your new display.
But I would be delighted to be proved wrong :-)
Hence my way round this was an stm32f103 microcontroller that sits in the middle, interpreting the data and commands and translating then accordingly. If the LCD design works properly it should be able to adjust the backlight for the led via pwm as it can catch and understand the oled backlight adjust levels.
David